What is the Good Module System?
The good module system is a way of organization that I’ve been developing over the years. It’s particularly oriented to storage areas (garage, storage unit, shed, closet) rather than living areas, although some principles translate. This distinction is to avoid aesthetic constraints of living areas. The system provides a direction of goodness for organization and defines what’s good enough. It bakes in lessons and watch-outs from practical failings. This system is most useful when dealing with a lot of stuff and space is a constraint.
In short, it uses shelves, racks, cabinets, and compartments to house “good modules” filled with objects in a sensible, searchable, and space-efficient way. This begs a question…
What is a Good Module?
Basically, a good module is a labeled container that contains related items. Ground-breaking, I know. Let’s get into the nuanced specification:
Specifications of a Good Module Container
- The container can close
- The container is stackable
- The container is durable (e.g., can be lifted when filled)
- The container is reasonably full
- The container is labeled with the theme of the contents (e.g., paints, art supplies, glues, etc.). The more specific, the better.
- The container has a place to live (e.g., spot on a shelf, in a stack of Good Modules)
- The container is regular, that is like other containers (e.g., same storage bin or box)
- The container has handles
Specifications of a Good Module Contents
- The contents are related to each other and relate to the labeled theme
- Groups of closely related items are bundled (e.g., binding papers together, bagging small parts together)
- Individual items are compacted or bundled (e.g., rope is bundled, wires are wrapped and twist tied, fabrics are folded)
- The items are useful and functional. Non-functional items can be moved to a “Broken – To Fix” Good Module.
Not Quite Perfect
A Good Module will never be totally perfect. All the specifications are hard to hit. Themes are hard to hit perfectly. Since this is a living system of new items and retiring items, existing modules get repurposed, relabeled, and reorganized. Consider these specifications as guidelines to aim for and not strict requirements.
The Pumpkin Analogy
While the details have faded, I heard an analogy from a neuroscientist that resonated with me. When a person is holding one pumpkin, their brain has a signature that indicates they’re holding one object. When a person is holding ten small pumpkins, their brain indicates they’re holding many objects. When a person is holding a box with ten small pumpkins, their brain indicates they’re holding one object.
Similarly, by containing our stuff in modules, we are simplifying our perceptual/mental landscape and the task of moving/reorganizing.
Using the System
An Organization Practice
Creating and using Good Modules is a practice. Time must be dedicated to this task to make it work. Chaos accumulates. Things are used and pile up or are put away haphazardly. New items arise, modules fill up, and things deserve retirement. Spend the time and effort and the system pays a reward.
Saving Thought
An unorganized space makes me anxious. Early attempts I’ve made at organization like binning items in containers without labels, caused me to loose them frequently. I get peeved when I have to open up the same thought process over and over. Where is this thing? Which box did I put it in? Was I going to donate this thing? By using this system, thought and anxiety can be spared by having incremental progress that has staying power with time.
Generic Principles
The Good Module system outlines many suggestions and principles. I often apply these generally and recursively. For instance, I could have a container of cables and wires. I’d label the bin, and also bag and label the similar wires (e.g., USB A, USB C, USB Micro, etc.). Put another way, containers can have subcontainers.
Choosing Containers
It is best to have fewer types of containers. For example, I typically use Costco plastic totes and storage bins, and SmoothMove Bankers Boxes (small – 12″x12″x16″). The benefit of minimizing the types of containers is that the storage method (e.g., shelves, cabinets) can be customized to efficiently accommodate regular containers. Haphazard containers often take up more space than is necessary. Of course, irregular containers are useful whether it is because you already own it or it is the original packaging. Ideally, I am for 60-80% of modules to be regular containers.
Buying into a System
There are off-the-shelf systems for organization, like the Ikea Kallax. I think it is great. It’s stackable, volume-efficient, and heck, I can stand on it. The only challenge with a system like that is it can get pricey. That’s why it’s dangerous for me to go into the Container Store. Once you buy into a system, you’re locked it. I prefer to use long-standing brands with sturdy products. I’ve gotten burned by breaking particle-board faux-Kallaxs from Amazon. Now what do I do with all the bins I got for it?
Using Original Packaging
I’m torn on using and keeping original packaging. The pro is that there is already a box the holds the product. The con is that it may not live in the box typically, the box is wasted space, and the box is irregularly sized. I think the original packaging is worth keeping if: 1) it is used to store the item when not in use, 2) the item comes with small specific parts (e.g., cleaning tools, replacements, etc.), and 3) if it doesn’t fit into a regular container. This needs to be considered on a case-by-case basis. Just don’t store empty or mostly empty boxes around, “just in case”. Better to bundle up the small parts if they exist and ditch the box.
Lessons Learned on Containers
- Make sure it is liftable and durable
- Make sure it has a place it fits
- Make sure it can fit through doors (like the attic door)
- Make sure it has handles
- If stored outside, make sure it is weatherproof
Labeling Containers
Thematic Label
The thematic label gives a sense of what the contents of the module are. I use a label maker to print these labels on the fly. I’ve also used a sharpie and white electrical tape. I like stick-on labels as they can be easily overwritten or removed. When organizing, theming, and labeling items and modules, there are countless options depending on the stuff that’s there. Making those themes is it’s own kind of art. I oscillate between the fast and loose approach (e.g., Electronics I, Electronics II …) and a more precise method (e.g., Electronic Tools, Electronic Components, etc). The latter is better, but that can come in time.
Standard Themes
There are a few standard themes that are widely applicable and are useful buckets to have:
- To Organize – Miscellaneous
- Trash – General
- Trash – Special Disposal (e.g., batteries, light bulbs, electronics)
- Broken – To Fix
- To Donate (possibly broken out by location, e.g., GoodWill)
Goodness Label
This label indicates if the module is a Good Module or not. I use colored circular stickers to indicate this. Green means Good Module, in that I’ve check the container and it’s contents and I meet enough specifications that I’m satisfied. A blue sticker means investigate, in that when I have time, I should reorganize the container. Loose items by default are not Good Modules. I like to give special color stickers to the “Standard Themes” above.
When placing a Good Module sticker, I may also write in sharpie the year (e.g., ’23) to signal when I lasted thoroughly assessed it. If 2-5 years down the line, I can take a look again, I can see if it still makes sense. Maybe it’s time to retire some of its contents or pull out any nonsense that found its way in.
Location Label
This label indicates where the module should live. This is the cherry-on-top for a really neat Good Module. This only needs to be as specific as the room (e.g., shed, garage, attic). This is useful if the items are used rarely or seasonally. Doing this saves some thought when it comes time to organize again.
Container Inventory
A creme-de-la-creme Good Module has an inventory sheet, where its contents are listed inside or outside. Only after hitting the low-hanging-fruit should this be done. I like to use laminated grid paper sheets and writing with sharpie. This means that the inventory won’t get easily damaged or smudged. You can erase sharpie with rubbing alcohol. An inventory on the outside of a container can be affixed with double-sided tape or photo corners, but make sure its secure. A fail-safe for if it falls off is to note on the inventory which module it goes to.
Dealing with Stuff (Items)
You have something that doesn’t have a good home. Maybe it has been living on an open horizontal surface for weeks, months, or years. What to do? This is a challenging and often emotional part. Definitely more an art than a science. The method is pick up the item and decide: 1) Do I keep it, 2) Do I donate it, or 3) Do I throw it away?
When making that decision, consider the following questions:
- What purpose does this thing serve for me now?
- When have I last used it?
- Would I buy it again if I didn’t have it?
- Do I honestly plan on using it in the next 2 years?
I’m guilty of keeping odds and ends on the off chance that I’d use it in some project. Maybe I will, but also maybe I’d also buy new components to my need because I’ve forgotten I kept this thing. Many times, it’s better to get something “just in time,” rather than keep it “just in case.”
Thank You for Your Service
Marie Kondo’s book “The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up” is great and covers the topic of “dealing with stuff” well. One particular technique I found invaluable in donating or trashing items is to thank the object for its service in my life. Once its been thanked, I am much more comfortable to let it go.
Disassembly
When I can’t bear to be rid of something, I may disassemble it for storage. I make sure that everything stays together (bagging or wrapping in plastic wrap). This can save a lot of volume, especially if something is use very infrequently. One example is taking the legs off my table saw. It’s useable without the legs, the legs were wobbly, and it’s more compact without them. If I’m scrapping something, I’ve disassembled it and kept only the components that may possibly be useful later: screws, batteries, motors.
Container Management
Now that you have all these containers and Good Modules, where to put them? The shelves and cabinets are the container management. The most primitive management is the humble stack. It makes getting the bottom item a pain but works in a pinch. Here are some considerations for container management:
- Volumetric Efficiency – Does the system make good utilization of the vertical and horizontal space?
- Container Size – How big of containers can it fit?
- Customizability – Can you change the spacing of the shelving?
- Movability – Can the shelving roll?
- Sturdiness – Can this handle heavy weights?
- Accessibility – Can modules be easily accessed (e.g., not overly stacked, heavy items not too high, etc.)
My favorite container management systems are Stainless Steel Wire Racks on Casters and Kallax. That said, using what’s available or getting for-this type organizers makes sense in a lot of cases. When space is constrained, it’s worth to reopen the question of is this the right organizer? Can I be more volumetrically efficient? I built a loft in my shed to add more space. Ceiling organizers are brilliant. Upgrading shelves can be a big win.
Special Containers – Drawers
There are a few special containers. These are chests of drawers or toolboxes. In this case, consider each drawer its own module, complete with thematic labeling and containing related items.
Customized Container Managers
If you’re handy, you can build custom structures to work around large objects. These can be made 2x4s and plywood. The rub is that these are hard to make customizable. The big benefit here is that you can have dedicated cubbies and spots for awkward or large items.
Closing
This is the Good Module system. It’s been useful for me. I plan to continue to use and refine it. I hope it is useful to you. Thank you for reading.
Lessons to Myself 